June 23 - Isleornsay to Arnisdale

After our usual overabundant breakfast, we were off. As has been the case for most of the days so far, we started off in a light rain. It didn't seem bad at all. I guess I was getting used to it. Shortly after we got started, I found a spot where the road had been reconstructed, and the old road was still rideable. So I stuck around until Paul and Lynn showed up (only a few minutes), and we rode up the deserted old road. This part of Skye was pretty barren, covered only by some low heather. I would guess that this area would be gorgeous in the fall when the heather is in bloom.

Along the way, we passed a small shrine to a five-year-old boy who was killed about 15 years ago. The monument gave no details, but it had a small, sad inscription: "To Our Beautiful Wee Boy". Shortly after this, we passed an abandoned caravan that had clothes and toys strewn about. I can't imagine that the two were related, but who knows?

I got to thinking about how I was going to carry all my stuff after I was no longer supported by Bespoke. It appeared that I had too much stuff to be carried by my panniers. So, I figured the way to go would be to get some bungees and strap my bulky stuff to the top of the rack, such as jackets, rain pants, etc. I figured the town of Broadford, ahead and just off the route, might be big enough to have a hardware store. So, after we reached the end of the abandoned road (and climbed over the gate which was uncharacteristically locked), I turned left as Paul and Lynn turned right. Unfortunately, it was a Sunday, and not all stores were open. So my foray into Broadford was unsuccessful. I guessed that I had to deal with this later.

So, on to the ferry. Turning around, I followed Paul and Lynn up into Glen Arroch, a much tougher climb than I had seen for a few days. Of course, since it was raining and around 55 degrees, there was no danger of me overheating! A fast and furious downhill on the other side to the Kylerhea ferry.

When I got to the ferry landing, I couldn't see the ferry at all. I wasn't entirely sure that I was in the right place. Which would have been quite a stunner if I had had to climb back out again! Then I saw Paul and Lynn climbing up the hill on the other side of the strait, and I knew I was OK. Eventually the ferry did arrive (accompanied by several seals poking their heads above the water). It was quite an unusual design. The deck swiveled around a central point, and was balanced so well that the operator and a young man (I assumed it was his son) could turn it with ease. The first one off the ferry was the owner's dog, who came off the ferry, dutifully sniffed me and the others waiting for the ferry, then sat down to await the departure. The second one off the ferry was Len Morrison, the boatman who would be carrying us to Kinloch Hourn on the next day. I didn't know it at the time. In fact, when I saw him, he was on his way to pick up our luggage at Isleornsay. I guess he does a little bit of everything to make ends meet.

Kylerhea Ferry

Well, since Paul and Lynn got a half-hour head start, I pretty much decided to spend the rest of the day on my own. I was getting hungry, and cold, and tired, so I took the opportunity when I saw a sign for the Glenelg Candle and Coffee Shop. It seemed a bit, well, pretentious, but the tea and scone were just the ticket.

Warmed up and hunger sated, I headed back down the hill to Glenelg. I had read about two brochs, or defensive towers, whose remains were just off the route. So I headed up the glen to check them out. Who should I run into, but Paul and Lynn... coming down the valley. So they told me a little about the brochs, and carried on. I headed on up the valley and found the brochs. The more distant one, called Dun Troddan, was in fair shape, with about 10-15 feet of tower remaining. I spent some time wandering about the ruins, poking my head into the nooks and crannies. It was quite a feat of engineering for its time. Heading back down the valley, I also stopped at Dun Telve, but not for as long a time.

Back on the "main route", I was treated to fabulous views up and down the Sound of Sleat, and when the rain wasn't too heavy, across the Sound to Skye. This route was excellent for cycling, since it was essentially a 20-mile dead end.

On the route to Arnisdale. Skye is to the left, Knoydart Peninsula in the center and right.

We finally hit the end of the road (literally) at the crofter's houses in the hamlet of Corran. The B & B we were staying in, had been created by joining two crofter's houses together. It wasn't as fancy as the ones we had stayed in before, or would stay in later in the trip. But it was fine, and I felt good helping these folks out. It was obvious the locals were scraping by doing whatever they could to make a few pounds.

After supper, we went for a nice walk, up into Glen Arnisdale. It was a beautiful walk, though we couldn't take all the paths that we wanted to due to the high water from the heavy rains. There were hundreds of sheep, a few cattle, and two herds of red deer totalling around 30 stags. A wonderful place to stay overnight!