June 20 - Acharacle to Arisaig

This wonderful day started out with me braving the Black Pudding on the menu. For those who don't know, Black Pudding is made with blood. I haven't found out whether it is cow's blood or sheep's. I don't think it really matters... And, of course, bacon. Now we're not talking the thin, fat-laden stuff we buy here in the States. The Scots use the tenderloin, just like Canadian Bacon. So, it's more like eating ham. Very tasty! But I must admit... the Scottish breakfast.... Eggs, Black Pudding, bacon, sausage, potato scones... though irresistable, it really sits heavy in the stomach....

After breakfast, what a glorious day! I think the weather on this day, and the scenery, and diversions, made it my favorite day of the entire two weeks. No rain! That's a good start...

Anyway, we decided to start the day with a detour of about three miles to check out Castle Tioram (pronounced cheer-um), a castle ruin that is on a small island accessible only at low tide. The road out to the castle was quite nice, as well.

Scottish Bridge

Our next diversion came shortly after we got back to the main road. Our trip notes mentioned a side road that would turn into a hiking path, and would eventually take us to a viewing point for St. Fionnan's Isle, an island in Loch Shiel that had been used for centuries as a burial ground for important folks (saints, clan leaders, that sort of thing). Well, this diversion turned out to be quite a trip. The road quit entirely at a gate, but we could easily get around the gate onto a forest track. The track eventually stopped as well, leaving us with a path that varied between well-defined gravel tracks and a slight indentation in the grass. All the while dodging sheep with young lambs scampering about. It was quite a surreal image, I'm sure.

Back on the road, we had glorious weather for the ride alongside Loch Moidart and the climb up over the Glenuig Hill. The descent down the other side was probably the best downhill of the entire trip, since it was fast, straight, and two lanes! Very enjoyable. After lunch at the Glenuig pub, we headed east along the Moydart Peninsula to a small beach overlooking Samalaman Island, with a view to Eigg and Rum Islands.

View over the Sleat towards Eigg and Rum

Our last few miles into Arisaig were also packed with attractions, like the church that was usedas the church in "Local Hero". And another monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie, this one a modest cairn erected to mark the spot where he fled the Scottish mainland after his defeat at Culloden.

The riding was completed by a ride through a virtual rain forest, with stone walls on either side of the road, and moss-draped trees forming a canopy over the road. Though it was still single-lane, and somewhat dangerous, it was a really nice cycling experience. I entertained Will and Caroline with a rousing rendition of the famous motorcycle song, "1952 Vincent Black Lightning". Our route this day finished in Arisaig, a nice little touristy spot that will soon be bypassed by a new highway that will stay high above the ocean. Fortunately, they will leave the old road to be taken over by cyclists.

Heading into Arisaig